After completing the Nassau/New Providence chapter, where I spent several weeks playing tourist in my own backyard, I was ready to head towards the unknown. My second chapter for Moon Bahamas travel guidebook was Freeport/Grand Bahama. Mark is originally from Freeport, but hadn’t been there for many years until we went on a short trip back in June to see some old family friends. It was a first-time visit for me and so it was a nice opportunity to get my bearings and familiarized myself with the island. But this research trip was going to be a different animal; attempting to fit all of the highlights of the island into four days, and then coming home and write all about it.

If you’d like a little more background on Freeport’s somewhat challenged economy, and the perks of visiting and/or relocating there, you can read my previous article “What’s the Deal with Freeport?”, so I won’t go into too much detail about Grand Bahama’s history or economic status in this post. I did, however, get the feeling there was still a bit of disarray from Hurricane Matthew, as the major casino and parts of the Grand Lucayan were still closed, as well as Memories Resort and Casino, and a few other previously touristed establishments. I also happened to go during October, which is slow season, where many businesses and hotels shut down for repairs, or general maintenance. But although it felt quiet, you could tell from the general vibe of the on-island guests, that it was exactly what they were looking for.

The pool at the Grand Lucayan that seems to fade into the sea

In any case, overall I found Grand Bahama to be a fantastic destination, and after these two visits, I can highly recommend it as an escape for a diverse array of both international, and domestic travelers. Between the all-inclusive options, stunning beaches where you can get away from crowds, fabulous dining options, parks and nature trails, and a fantastic selection of eco-tours and diving options, I feel as though there is truly something for everyone.  There was an Out Island, small-town feel about the whole island, with more amenities and resort options than one would typically find in many of the other less-populated islands throughout The Bahamas.

So that being said, based on what I experienced during my time on the island, I wanted to provide a few details about “What to Do,” should you find yourself in Grand Bahama for 4 days or longer.

I’m going to start this proposed itinerary on a Wednesday, but of course, you could start at any time.

WEDNESDAY: Arrive on the mid-day flight and check into your accommodations. I’d suggest basing yourself in Port Lucaya if you’d like to be within close proximity of restaurants, shopping and beaches. Lighthouse Point at Grand Lucayan has numerous package options available, from al la carte rooms, to ferry inclusive travel packages, golf packages and complete all-inclusive nightly rates. It’s located on a stunning stretch of Lucaya Beach and has several on-site restaurants and the full-service Senses Spa and Fitness Center. Adjacent to the Grand Lucayan is Pelican Bay Hotel, known as the “Happiest Hotel in Grand Bahama.” The brightly painted, inviting colorful rooms with organic West Indian batik décor, cool tile flooring and eclectic art from around the world will surely make you feel at home. On property is Sabor, a hip Bahamian/Asian fusion restaurant on the edge of Port Lucaya, and the more casual Bones Bar, which serves fresh squeezed cocktails, as fishermen gather to tell fish tales after a day on the flats during their nightly happy hour. Immediately next door is the internationally renowned Flying Fish; a mix of local Bahamian and Caribbean flavors focused on locally sourced ingredients, on an epicurean level. Bahamian born, Toronto raised Chef Tim Tibbit’s has won numerous prestigious awards and rankings due to culinary excellence, and sommelier wife Rebecca Tibbits makes sure that there’s a distinguished wine list to accompany their menu offerings.

Pelican Bay Hotel

After you settle into your accommodations, venture out to explore Port Lucaya Marketplace. The Marketplace is set along the edge of the Port Lucaya Marina, and there you’ll find various shopping options including Sun & Sea Outfitters at UNEXSO, with the largest selection of dive and snorkel equipment, resortwear, casual beach attire, home good and souvenirs. Stop in at Leo’s Art Gallery to watch the artist at work. His attention to detail is expressed through vivid and exotic wildlife scenes and religious themes, and his work is popular among locals and visiting art collectors. The Port Lucaya Straw Market is one of Freeport’s most popular straw markets and stalls can be found at both the eastern and western end of Port Lucaya Marketplace. Here you can find up to 120 vendors selling artisan crafts and Bahamian souvenirs such as handmade straw handbags, hats, dolls, baskets, and ornaments, as well as soaps, jams, jellies, hot sauces and t-shirts.

When evening rolls around, head to Smith’s Point Fish Fry and settle into your new surroundings by mingling with the locals. The Fish Fry is a Wednesday night local’s spot that tourists have been gravitating towards over the years. It’s a small conglomeration of food offerings at Taino Beach, and is home to half a dozen or so open-air establishments cooking up Bahamian food and on BBQ grills or half oil drum cookers. Outriggers Beach Club is a family run establishment right on the beach and is the most popular spot due to the location and view, but the food line is always long. Da Bus Stop and Penny’s are other popular dining choices, located inland about a block. All of them have similar menus with their own in-house twist, so you really can’t go wrong. The evening gets going around 6-7pm but the real excitement happens later in the night with music, dancing and sometimes a bonfire, depending on the weather. It’s no-frills and the cuisine is a tasty, but greasy plate of food that you’ll saddle up to a picnic table with plastic cutlery with.

THURSDAY: Wake up early and go for a walk on one of the beautiful beaches such as Lucaya Beach or Coral beach. The 2-mile stretch of Lucaya Beach and Coral Beach are technically one in the same. If you want to escape the crowds of the Grand Lucayan, the Coral Beach end to the west is publicly accessible by driving down Coral Rd.

Around 9am, head to the Rand Nature Centre and spend an hour or so walking the nature trails and looking at the interpretative displays. The Centre is conveniently located within the borders of Freeport, but is a peaceful reprieve from the city life, with foot trails winding through one hundred acres of towering pine trees and native bush. If you are a birder, the Centre is a fantastic place for bird watching, as Grand Bahama has the second highest number of native bird species in The Bahamas after Abaco. Migratory birds such as the Cuban emerald hummingbirds, Bahama yellow-throats and red-legged thrushes make their home at the center from October to May. There’s a peaceful gazebo about mid-way through your walk where you can watch for turtles, fish and yellow-crowned night herons.

Then consider lunch at one of the laid-back beach bars on the beach

Manta Ray Beach Club at Silver Point Beach is located on a quiet and beautiful stretch of beach just east of Island Seas Resort. Their open-air beach bar has a lovely view of the ocean and they offer beach chairs, umbrellas, kayaks, paddleboards and other water activities for rent. They also have recently built colorful wooden huts that resemble bathhouses which sell local souvenirs and crafts.

Banana Bay at Fortune Beach is a hot spot for locals and tourists alike. Perched front and center on Fortune Beach, it is arguably the best casual oceanfront dining in Grand Bahama. There is both outdoor and indoor dining, but you will be well advised to sit outside and enjoy breathtaking views of Fortune Beach, which at low tide is a lovely sandbar, perfect for taking the little ones for a swim in the safe, shallow water.

Margarita Villa Sand Bar at Churchill Beach is tucked amidst a sand dune. There are residential houses to the west and the Viva Wyndham Fortuna Beach to the east, but this particular stretch of beach is pretty quiet. Choose outdoor seating on picnic tables under the shade of their thatched roof, or on their elevated platform deck overlooking the ocean. Indoors is air-conditioned with a sandy floor and a few bar-top tables.

Wherever you end up for lunch, be sure to bring your swimsuit so you can take a dip in the sea!

After lunch head to the Bahamian Brewery for their afternoon tour so you can learn about the brewery, and sample all of the products. The tour takes you throughout the brewing process, viewing the mash kettle, lauter tun and wort kettle. You’ll view the bottling line where they bottle and can all their beers on site. Then peek into the fermentation room housing their shiny brite tanks. All that touring can make a person thirsty, so to wrap things up you’ll head into the tasting room to sample all of their beers on draft. Afterwards pop into their retail shop to grab a case of your favorite product, and a t-shirt or hat to remember your experience.

If you still have energy, head to Agave Lucaya’s Zsa Zsa Mojito Bar for happy hour 4-7pm and sample some of their tasty Caribbean/Latin tapas.

FRIDAY: Grab coffee at Bootleg Chocolates to pick up an espresso and a sampling of their island-inspired chocolates, such as Gully Wash (local name for a gin and coconut water drink, also known as Sky Juice elsewhere), Guava Duff (a traditional Bahamian dessert) and Vanilla Bean with Rum. Coffee in hand, get on the road to West End. Located on the outskirts of the small fishing settlement of West End is Old Bahama Bay. It’s on the very western end of the island and has a relaxed Out Island feel, with contemporary conveniences. Those who are drawn to this Out Island locale are avid boaters, fishermen and water enthusiasts. Take a walk around the grounds, and while you are there, enjoy lunch at Teaser’s Tiki Bar.

On your way back stop at Paradise Cove for snorkeling at Deadman’s Reef, where you can snorkel off the beach in crystal clear shallow water. The reef teems with tropical marine life such as sea turtles, rays and coral reefs. You can rent snorkel equipment and kayaks directly from Paradise Cove Resort the cost is $3 per person to use the beach, chairs and facilities. Also on site is Red Bar, where you can get a cold beer and some of the best conch fritters on the island. 

Rest for a few hours before heading to Garden of the Groves for dinner. Friday is the only night they are open for dinner and on top of their regular lunch cafe menu, expect delicious specials like prime rib, lobster tail, steak and grilled tuna. The Café is on the edge of a pond filled with water birds, fish, turtles and a calming waterfall.

SATURDAY: Rise early and head east to Lucayan National Park for the Grand Bahama Nature Tour Kayak and Nature Tour. You’ll tour the trails and visit Ben’s Cave and then launch at Gold Rock Creek, where there are about 3 miles of paddling through mangroves. Sneak through narrow sections and see a diverse array of birds tucked within the mangroves and fish beneath you in the calm, clear water. Lunch is served on a private beach where you can explore one of the most beautiful beaches and sandbars on the island.

On your way back stop at Ol’ Freetown Farm to pick up some locally made products and visit the rescue animals. In conjunction with the local Humane Society, the owners have taken in animals that otherwise might not have a home. On the farm they house multiple horses, a miniature horse, pigs, goats, sheep, rabbits, an iguana, and numerous cats and dogs. The farm also grows fruits and vegetables, and sells local handmade products such as fresh baked bread, jams and jellies and pepper sauces.

If you decide you are having so much fun that you need to stay for a few extra days, fit in The Dolphin Experience with UNEXSO, head out to lunch at Bishop’s Place in High Rock, book a cave snorkeling trip with Calabash Eco Tours to Ben’s Cave and Owl’s Hole, book a motorized bike tour of the island with CocoNutz Cruisers, or simply relax on one of the many beautiful Grand Bahamian beaches.

There are still many more options on the island, nature tours, restaurants and beaches to explore, I just highlighted some of my favorites. You’ll just have to stay tuned to the release of the Moon Bahamas travel guidebook to read more in-depth about the diverse offerings of Grand Bahama!