Wedged between Long Island and Eleuthera, and of similar shape, Cat Island is a long, skinny island (48 miles running northwest to southeast) with an Italian-style boot-shaped landmass at the south end. The island is littered with ruins of stone cottages from the original settlers of the plantation era. Cat Island was originally called San Salvador (the name that Columbus bestowed upon the first place he made landfall), and there is a bit of a controversy as to whether Christopher Columbus made initial landfall in today’s San Salvador, Cat Island, or elsewhere in The Bahamas. When the name San Salvador was transferred to Watling’s Island in 1926, Cat Island allegedly took its name from Arthur Catt, a pirate who plied the waters so frequently, hiding his treasure among the caves and hills, that it became known as Catt’s Island.

Sleepy Cat Island is not known for nightlife, except for when Rake and Scrape gets going. Very few bars are open long past sunset, as most people chose to spend their days soaking up the sunshine and engaging in activities out on the water, and head in for an early night. The area is known for its incredibly gorgeous beaches, SCUBA diving, fishing, kiteboarding, plantation ruins, and The Hermitage, located at the top of Mt. Alvernia, the highest point in The Bahamas.

Cat Island is one of the few that maintains a true island culture, due to its farther removed location in the archipelago. You may hear whispers and stories of obeah, or black magic, used for both healing and cursing, and most can trace their ancestry back to the original settlers.

One thing is for certain, the island has an enticing draw about it. The locals are welcoming and the cadence seems to move at a slower pace. Some believe it would be beneficial to see additional development on the island in order to enhance the economy, but most visitors prefer it just the way it is.

So if you’re interested in visiting this special corner of the planet, keep reading for our Cat Island travel guide.

Getting There

There are two airports in Cat Island; Arthur’s Town in the north and New Bight, which is right in the center.

Commercial domestic flights into Cat Island can be booked on Sky Bahamas, with 2 flight per day from Nassau flying into either Arthur’s Town or New Bight. If you book on a day where they only fly into Arthur’s Town and had booked into New Bight (and visa versa) they will bus you to your final destination.

Getting Around

Taxis are available to take you to your accommodations from the airport, but a rental car is highly recommended for exploring the island. Bob’s Car Rentals is located in Arthur’s Town and can be reached at tel. 242/354-6120. Gilbert’s Car Rentals is at the New Bight Food Store and can be reached at tel. 242/342-3011.

Stay

Fernandez Bay

Just a stone’s throw from the New Bight Airport, Fernandez Bay Village offers cottages, villas and suites built in traditional Bahamian stone architecture. The resort is situated along a one-mile stretch of private beach that will beckon you for a swim, a kayak excursion or simply gazing out from under your beach umbrella. The suites offer luxuriously comfortable beds overlooking the beach as you wake up to the sounds of the waves lapping on the shore. The multi-roomed villas have full kitchens with everything you might need to cook your gourmet meal. Enjoy complimentary coffee, fruit and fresh baked cookies throughout the day. Closed mid-August through Nov 1st. www.fernandezbayvillage.com

Hawk’s Nest Resort and Marina

Hawk’s Nest Resort and Marina feels like it’s on the edges of the earth. Located on 450 acres on the tip of the “boot” of Cat Island and down a long dirt road. But with their own airstrip and marina you can arrive by air or sea, if coming in by land feels as though it will take too long. A beautiful stretch of beach is located near the marina on the lee and sunset side, and hammocks are strung overlooking the ocean. The king and queen rooms overlook the glistening sea and there is a pool and restaurant on property. Within the development are several multi-bedroom vacation rental homes if you’d like to really settle in. Host to several major fishing tournaments each year attracting anglers from all over. www.hawks-nest.com

Greenwood Beach Resort

The grounds at Greenwood Beach Resort

Greenwood Resort is a great budget option for those looking for a more social hostel-feel, and family-style environment, with the privacy of your own room. The property is located right on the beach on the east side of the island so you’ll typically have a nice, cool breeze throughout the year. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner daily with meal options. Managers Antione and Pauline specialize in SCUBA and kiteboarding, so for an adventure sports enthusiast, you’ll be set. Closed September and October. www.greenwoodbeachresort.biz

Shanna’s Cove

Cottages overlooking the ocean at Shanna’s Cove

Located on the very northwestern corner of the island is Shanna’s Cove Resort run by a wonderful European couple who lovingly built all five cottages and the restaurant themselves. They are located on one of the highest developed properties in The Bahamas, and boast the highest restaurant in the country. Their spacious rooms are updated and offer comfortable accommodations with beautiful views of the tranquil crescent strip of beach below. The are just steps from one of the best beaches on the island. And if you get sick of the picturesque bay at the property, there are walking trails leading through the native vegetation to the north beach. www.shannas-cove.com

Explore

The Hermitage at Mt. Alvernia

The steep hike up to The Hermitage

The Hermitage is perched on top of Mt. Alvernia on the highest elevation in The Bahamas, at 206 ft. It was built by Father Jerome in the 1930’s as his hermit residence and prayer refuge. He was an architect and minister from England and built numerous churches and cathedrals throughout Cat Island and Long Island during his years in The Bahamas.

To get to The Hermitage, head south from New Bight and just when you get to the south end of town you’ll see a sign on your left, marking the turnoff. Follow the road until you get to a small roundabout and you’ll park there. Stairs lead up to the structure. Make sure you wear sturdy shoes and watch your step. The stairs are extremely steep and can be treacherous if you aren’t that agile.

Plantation Ruins

There are 14 plantation ruins in south Cat Island including the most well-known Deveaux plantation ruins in Port Howe, a sprawling two story estate home and outlying buildings. It was owned by Colonel Andrew Deveaux, an American Loyalist from South Carolina who led the British military to surrender the Spanish in Nassau in 1783, reclaiming The Bahamas for the British crown for the last time. As a reward for his efforts, he was given a large portion of Cat Island where he built his mansion. The best way to visit these ruins, and get a history lesson, is to contact Daisy Mae at Sweet Tambrin tel. 242/464-6351, for guided tours through bush trails to the ruins.

Beaches

Cat Island is known for its stunning, untouched and oftentimes vacant beaches. You could walk (though you might not want to, as it’s a very long walk) from the very northwest point the entire length of its eastern shoreline all the way to the south, about 50 miles. Queen’s Highway runs along the western side of the island, so you’ll have no problem stumbling upon beaches on that side, but the east beaches aren’t very accessible unless you are visiting a resort.

Fernandez Bay Beach

Fernandez Bay Beach is located centrally on the island, near the New Bight airport. It is one of the most beautiful stretches of pristine, calm and protected beaches in The Bahamas. Visitors of Fernandez Bay Village venture out of their rooms after a day in the sun, cocktail in hand, to enjoy the sunset views over the water.  The soft, sandy bottom beckons you for a swim or for a kayak excursion. Crescent shape with a little rocky hook at the north side, and in combination with being in the middle of the island, preventing any swell. The beach is accessed by visiting Fernandez Bay Village. Stop in for lunch and enjoy a swim.

Ocean Beach

Ocean Beach is a fairly easily accessible beach if you would like to see the beaches on the east side of the island. Ocean Dream Beach Resort is located on the hill overlooking the beach and the ocean, so if you’re a guest, you’ll be marinating in the view for the duration of your stay. To get there head 2.5 miles north of New Bight airport you’ll see the sign for Ocean Dream Beach Resort. Head east on a bumpy dirt road for about 1.5 miles. Continue past the turnoff for Ocean Dream and you’ll find a spot to park and a short walk to the beach. This beach is known for decent surfing on the north end near the rocky outcrop. There’s not a lot of shade so bring an umbrella, and there’s no bathrooms, food or amenities.

Greenwood Beach

Greenwood Beach is off the regular tourist path unless you’re staying in the area. Along Greenwood Beach is the Greenwood Beach Resort and a community of homes, including vacation rentals and homeowners. Head south on Queen’s Highway until you get to a roundabout where you can head to Hawk’s Nest or towards Port Howe. Head west towards Port Howe. You’ll start to head north again and eventually see a sign for Greenwood Beach Resort. Follow a dirt road for 1 mile until you meet a t-intersection. You can access the beach directly at the t-intersection, or guests of Greenwood Beach Resort can enjoy this beautiful beach throughout their stay. The manager of the Greenwood Beach Resort offers kiteboarding lessons and rentals. No amenities unless you are a guest of Greenwood Beach Resort.

Sand Dollar Beach

Sand Dollar Beach is a public beach located in Port Howe. It’s at the very southern end of the island, protected by a rocky reef, shaded by casuarinas. It’s not a great spot for swimming as it’s very shallow and prone to seaweed, but nice to stop by for a stroll. No services or amenities. Limited parking available, look for the beach access sign from Queen’s Highway as you pass through Port Howe.

Entertainment and Events

Cat Island Rake and Scrape Festival

Cat Island Rake and Scrape Festival is hosted on Bahamas Labour Day Weekend in Arthur’s Town, the first weekend of June. This is known as a signature event for Cat Island as Rake and Scrape music is an integral part of Cat Island culture. The music is performed by local and well-known national artists and includes a Battle of the Rake and Scrape bands. Food stands serve Bahamian food, crafts and straw products, and a fisherman and local farmer’s market. Proceeds go towards a selected high school graduate.

Cat Island Regatta

Cat Island Regatta is held over Emancipation Day weekend, the first weekend in August. It is a popular “homecoming” weekend for Cat Islanders, and visitors and sloops from around The Bahamas come together to celebrate. It is hosted at the Regatta Beach venue in New Bight and features sloop racing, live music and entertainment, food and drinks, games and culture.

Regatta Beach Fish Fry

The Fish Fry is located on a bypass road that runs off of Queen’s Highway to “downtown” New Bight. The only sights you’ll find along this bypass are a collection of weathered, but brightly colored open-air shacks known as the Fish Fry, and the regatta stage for watching the sloops in the harbour during regatta. It’s located along an attractive stretch of sandy beach, and shaded by casuarinas. The big nights for Fish Fry are Friday and Saturday night, but you might find people milling around drinking beers, slapping dominoes and feasting on Bahamian food such as cracked conch, cracked lobster, jerk chicken, at any hour, on any given day of the week. Hidden Treasures is typically the favored choice for locals. Check out one of their fresh fruit smoothies such as tamarind, sour sop, papaya or a variety of other in-season local fruits.

For more travel information, be sure to check out my travel guidebook, Moon Bahamas.